Saturday, June 22, 2019
After our infamous Italian breakfast, we picked up some umbrellas at Remy store which connects the Gotanda station from its level 4. I tried to buy Suica at Gotanda level 4 but that was not on the JR Yamanote line, so had to settle with Pasmo card. Buying from the counter was very easy. This saved lot of hassles at later point of time(s) (including while in Kyoto). Just that had to top up few times and we were happy to.
Our first stop was to at Harajuku on the JR Yamanote line. Meiji Jingu Shrine which is the resting place for Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken who are worshipped as Gods. Once walked out of Harajuku station, the scene changes from a cosmopolitan city to a great green park/forest in no time with a huge Torii gate. It was drizzling and raining intermittently for rest of the day and we wanted to make the best use of it. Shrine is quite huge, and full of small details to look into. One cannot sit in the main complex, so after visiting the main complex, on our way back to Harajuku, Meiji Jingu Inner garden sits quietly with subtle entrance. Rain picked up the speed right after I got in to the garden and gosh, the small lotus pond and the plants in the rain – it was a sight to see. Its way more than what meets the eye and the camera. I closed the lens and stood quietly for a while under a tree in the immersive rain. Though the entrance is subtle, garden is gorgeous and huge.
From their info board and pamphlets (I kept it as its in there, so don’t blam me)
The garden was originally part of compounds of daimyo yashiki (a feudal lord’s mansion) owned by the Iis. Since the beginning of Muji era (1868~) it became the imperial estate and was put improvements into by the order of His Majesty the emperor Meiji. It spreads 83,000 square meters with the reminiscences of Musashino fields. In it there are spots of interest such as Kakuuntei (a tea house), Otsuridai (a fishing platform), Azumaya (a resting house), Minamiike (a pond), Shobuda (an iris field) and Kiyomasaido (a well), each of which never fail to attract you through the year whenever you visit, especially at the change of the four seasons. Among the glamorous groups of flower, irises in Jne is best to observe, which the late Her majestly cherished a deep affection for.
Meiji tngu Inner Garden (Gyoen)
The Inner Garden (Gyoen) is the only part that had existed long before the foundation of Meiji Jingu. In the early Edo Period (1603-1867), this area was the garden of Lord Kato of Kumamoto and later went into the ownership of Lord Ii of Hikone. The third Shogun Iemitsu Tokugawa also visited this garden. After the Meiji Restoration (1868), this area became the property of the Imperial Family and was named Yoyogi Gyoen. Emperor Meiji expressed great pleasure at this tranquil garden and composed a Waka poetry in its honor:
Utsusemino Yoyogi no sato wa Shizukanite
Miyako no hokano Kokochi koso sureTrasnslates to,
Deep in the woodland of Yoyogi, the quietude creates an illusion of seclusion from the city.
On a land area of approximately 83,000m2, small trails crisscross through kumazasa (Sasa veitchii), reminiscent of the traditional rural landscape of the Musashino. In the Garden, you can find the Kakuuntei teahouse , Nan-chi Pond, a fishing spot, Azumaya (Gazebo), Iris Garden, and Kiyomas well. Each season, the Garden offers a different aspect of beauty, with yamabuki (Kerria japonica), tsutsuji (Azalea), satsuki (Rhododendron indicurn), Wisteria hanashobu (Iris ensata), water lilies, hagi ( Japanese bush clover), and tsubaki Japanese camellia), as well as the verdant hues of early spring, the bright and red and yellow leaves of autumn, and the snowy landscape of winter. The refreshing scent of leaves in the breeze… the rustle of the foliage in the trees. the twitters of wild birds… the crisp reflection of trees on the water.., water birds splashing and fish swimming in the pond… All these bring us solace and a peace of mind, an escape from the bustle of urban life. Kakuun-tei The house, constricted in the sukiya-style (teahouse design), was built by order of Emperor Meiji as a rest house for Empress Shoken to express his consideration for her. The gentle slope leading to the pond is covered by a lush lawn, with azaleas planted to create a winding trail for leisurely strolls. The view from the front garden shows the point of the Garden as a whole, overlooking the quiet Nan-chi Pond across the lawn. An old pine located on the water’s edge and the thick forest on the far side create beautiful scenery in all seasons. Kakuun-tei was a favorite resting place for the Empress during her visits to the Garden. It was burned down in the air raid but was rebuilt in 1958 with the support of a benefactor.
The Iris Garden
Following the trail leading northwest by Nan-cbi Pond leads the visitor to Kiyomasa’s well through the Iris garden surrounded by deep green woods. In the Edo Period, this was a training paddy field fur the children of samurai families to learn the importance and the hardships involved in rice cultivation. In 1893, Emperor Meiji proposed that it would garden of irises for the pleasure of Empress Shoken, Surrounding the garden are momiji ( Japanese maple), yamabuki (Japanese globeflower), satsuki, and hagi on the slope. Trails were laid intricately along the Iris Garden and through trees, and the thatched roof gazebo on the top of the small hill overlooks the whole garden. 1500 beautiful iris groups of 150original Edo-type varieties are planted in the iris paddies. which reaches full bloom in June, with elegant flowers blooming above the leaves, improvements to iris varieties started in the mid-Edo Period (18th century).
Kiyomasa no Ido (Kiyomasa’s Well)
Among the trees beyond the Iris Garden, spring water flows out of a well. The well dates back to the olden days and was one oldie most famous wells of the Edo Period. Because land was initially the garden of Daimyo Kato, in the early Edo Period, it is believed that the well was made by the famous samurai, Kiyomasa kato. The spring water from the well remains at a constant temperature of around 15 degree Celsius through out the year, feeling warm in winter and cool in summer. the spring water irrigates the Iris garden and supplies water to Nanchi pond. From that point on the water flows out of the pond gate and under the Shin-kyo bridge over Minami-sando to form the Shibuya river. The water was used for tea ceremonies until recently.
Tsutsuji-yama (Azalea Garden)
Aged yamatsutsuji (Rhododendron kaempferi) bushes can be found in various places of the Garden, often under the deciduous broadleaf trees that are typical of the Musashino region. Especially along the trail back from Kiyomasa’s Well, walking up the slope toward the North Gate, there are large clusters of yamatsutsuji among the tall konara (Quercus serrata) and yamazakura (Cerasus jamasakura). Some trees over 100-years old are taller than a person. In full bloom in late April, the pale pink flowers create a beautiful contrast to the bright green leaves and form wonderful flower tunnels.
Nan-chi Pond (South Pond)
The large pond that can be viewed from Kakuun-tei is known as Nan-chi Pond (8,300 m2 in area) and has been known as a sacred spring water pool from the days of Edo. The pure spring water from Kiyomasa no Ido irrigates
the Iris Garden and flows into this pond, reflecting the surrounding trees, and making aquatic plants such as the water lily and kouhone (Nuphar japonica) bloom. This is a quiet pond where carp, Crucian carp and Japanese rice fish swim, the offspring of fishes released into the pond by Emperor Meiji to please Empress Shoken. Kingfishers and herons can be seen hunting fish. In winter, ducks and Mandarin ducks can be seen resting on its surface. Goshawk and red-flanked bluetail have been sighted there as well.
Seasonal Highlights
Katakuri (Trout Lily) and season of fresh green:From mid-March until early April
Yamabuki (Japanese globeflower): late March until mid-April
Fuji (Wisteria): April
Yamatsutsuji (Phododendron kaempferi): April to May
Hanashobu (Iris): Late May to late June
Suiren (Water Lily):June to September
Red and yellow leaves of autumn: Late November to mid-December
Mandarin Ducks and Ducks:November to March
Kingfisher and Varied Tit:All year
By the time we got out of the garden, rain took a break. We walked to Takeshita street and that was our first hand experience of the ‘crowd’. Street was huge, still I couldn’t use the small umbrella. We walked for a while and tried some street food and
Skipped our evening plan to visit Metropolitan Government Building viewing. as it was raining and late. Pushed the Shibuya plan to following day.
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